Set Pieces In Miniature

Firstly, apologies for the long delay between posts, sometimes life just gets in the way, and things have been a little manic since December. But like all thing’s, situations have a tendency at some point to slow down and return to what we consider normal levels, and that seems to be the case for me at this juncture.

So, this time around I thought I’d discuss the humble set pieces, which as you are aware are quite frequent in miniature as they are in real life. Every game of football has its share of corners, throw ins, free and goal kicks, as well as the odd penalty.

Subbuteo games are no different whether playing a live opponent or solo, set pieces will ultimately play their part.

Setting The Narrative

For the purpose of the discussion let’s assume a few things; Firstly, you’re attempting to play to some flavour of Subbuteo rules, I know the variations are plentiful, so for simplicity’s sake let’s take the mid 70’s as a starting point, I may err at times towards some earlier version but generally the mid 70’s seems a happy medium. You may ask why, well it’s because I’m as conversant with those if not better than any other form, and I’m sure you’ll recognise them, even if you don’t actually comply fully or even partially with them. Secondly, I’m assuming you’re using Subbuteo rules as part of your solo play, (with the usual sprinkling of house rules, to allow a solo game to flow as smoothly as you can).

Free Kicks

According to those mid 70’s rules, when an indirect free kick is awarded each side has 2 flicks for positioning, (the attack gets first dibs), and if the free kick happens to be inside the opponents shooting area it becomes a direct free kick. Thus, allowing the defence to form a wall consisting of a maximum of 4 players, to be placed no closer than 90mm from the ball, as well as its allotted 2 positioning flicks.

Now this is the method I use in my solo games, but with a few slight alterations. Only 3 defenders in a wall, no player when flicking for position is allowed inside the 6-yard-box, if any player ends up inside the box after positioning it’s returned to its former position and the flick is lost. It’s not rocket science; it can if you want it to be, but it doesn’t have to be complicated.

Penalties

Penalties are less likely to happen in my experience, but they do happen from time to time. How you deal with the lack of an opponent here is purely down to you. I use Bad Boy keepers, stick ‘em on the line with at least half the base covering the goal line, ball on the spot, and the attacker taking the spot kick anywhere on the “D” and basically stick your laces through it.

But we have to consider what happens should we miss and the ball remains in play. I have this take on things. If the keeper saves it, and the ball remains inside the 6-yard-box, I call that a good save and the defence gain possession. Should the ball come out of the 6-yard box the attack can attempt to follow up, (penalty taker included).

Should the ball hit the woodwork and rebound out, possession goes to the nearest team (player) to the ball. But the penalty taker cannot touch it, unless the keeper has also touched the ball as well, but he (the penalty taker), can be counted in assessing who’s closest.

Clear as mud eh, but I personally feel my convoluted rule is as close as “Damn it” is to swearing to official FIFA rules, so it should make sense if you’re familiar with the FIFA rules on penalties.

Again, it matters little how you conduct matters, but my point here is, it saves a little head scratching if you get things clear in your own mind of what to do should you miss a penalty and the ball remains alive.

Corners

We’re all I’m sure conversant with the 3 positioning flicks for corners, again the attack gets first dibs, then the defence respond with 3 of their own. Nothing special, it’s changed little over time.

But we can add a few things into the mix to give the attack a small advantage for example; allowing the attack to have a first time shot immediately after the corner is taken, and not allowing any blocking flicks by the defence, that is of course if you allow blocks at all. I do before a shot, so for me it’s more of an advantage for me than it may be for you.

One last thing on corners, well it’s 2 really but one is a little insignificant, after the corner is taken the corner kicker is allowed a free flick to get onside. How significant that is depends on your offside rule, I’ve simplified mine so you can’t be offside from set pieces in the area, whilst the ball stays in the area. Once it’s played out it resets the offside again, so your mileage may differ.

The other is something that is down to a solo players own taste, or take on things. If the defenders gain possession in open play following a corner, it can leave a possible congested shooting area, and unless you play a reasonable number of blocks in your games, the congestion is more or less left in situ. This happens in my games at times, I can’t say it bothers me greatly, it just makes me think a little how I work the ball out, and I have to try and work the position of the defence by playing for position off the ball, trying to get some form of order back. Easier said than done at times, but at least it poses a conundrum to solve now and again.

One method I have tried in the past is revert to a version of the 60’s organising rule. Which allowed the placement of up to 3 figures in one’s own shooting area providing you were at the time in possession outside of said area.

So, working on that principle if you gain possession of the ball following a corner kick, and as soon as you get out of the area (and you’re still in possession at that point). You get up to 3 flicks (not placed, I’m not a fan, you maybe, I’m not judging) to reposition your defenders, that are inside the shooting area. Only 1 flick allowed per player to a maximum of 3. The attack follows suit but may only flick any attacker that now finds himself in an offside position, up to a maximum of 3 flicks and again only 1 flick per player.

That may give some of you a way to easily get a little order back or an idea that can be elaborated upon. Like I said I don’t bother, it’s not something I ponder about these days.

Throw Ins

I’m sure you all know how to take a throw in, each side gets a flick, and the attacker kicks the ball into play. The 70’s (and earlier) rule of maintaining that the figure flicking in, remains behind the touchline or it was deemed a foul throw. It was a way of ensuring that the throw didn’t turn into a free kick, but with practice it is possible to get a fair distance from a throw in using this method.

Modern pitches don’t seem to have as much room outside of the touchline these days, add a surround into the mix and it gets even smaller. If you are lucky enough to have mounted your pitch on a larger than necessary board you can increase the room.

I didn’t did I! I never gave it a thought when I stuck the pitch to my board. So, I have barely enough room if at all to take a throw. So, I came up with an alternative method. The ball when flicked into play cannot cross an imaginary line that runs through the penalty spots, and must come to rest within the quarter or adjacent quarter from where the throw was taken. Any breach of this restriction is a foul throw. Which I’m led to be believe is similar to how Keith Littler demonstrates his ‘68 rules. Great minds think alike eh, or is it a case of fools seldom differ.

Alternatively, you could use a throw in figure, and I can remember when they were all the rage with many a misguided youth, (myself included).

Goal Kicks

For many, many years picking up and placing your players for a goal kick has been the accepted way, the official laws have changed a little over time but the principle is basically the same, you pick the players up and place them back down.

I wasn’t happy just doing this, (although it’s perfectly acceptable to do so if you want to), I wanted a way of populating all areas of the pitch without resorting to a brick wall defence or a lone attacker in another post code.

So, I came up with the Zone System as can be seen below.

You can clearly see 4 distinct zones and players are placed into them as follows. The attacker places first:

3 into Zone A

1 into Zone B

2 into Zone C

2 into Zone D

Now that leaves 2 players you can just throw them away, or as I think is a much better option, place them in any Zone you see fit.

The defence then turns the graphic through 180, and reciprocate using the same method.

The eagle eyed amongst us may realise I am kind of keeping to regular types of formation here, and if formations are you’re thing it’s one way to ensure teams set up as expected.

Again, it’s just one way to mix things up a little without deliberating too much, I personally just find it quick and simple. Which is one thing I advocate in my solo games, although saying that sometimes I’m as guilty as the next soloist with some of my methods and ideas. Easier may in fact be better, but where’s the fun in that at times.

Finally

What makes solo play so fascinating, well at least for me, is there are no set rules, you are in total control. Most of us I would imagine follow some variation of the Subbuteo rules, and have a good mix of house rules tossed into the pot just for good measure.

I can’t tell anyone how to play solo, I can only make a few suggestions that I’ve found have helped me. At the end of the day, it’s not how I play that should concern you, but how you want to play, you’d be surprised what you can come up with when you stop and think about it.

I’ve purposely omitted to include my reasoning or elaborated on some of my suggestions, for the sole reason, they’re based around my own opinions and experiences about Subbuteo, and football in general, and not hard facts. It’s up to you to consider if anything suggested resonates with your own principles or experiences.

Solo Subbuteo is more than just scoring goals, it’s a hobby that can grow with you. You breathe life into the figures, you pick the teams, organise the tactics, it’s your world, your rules, and no one can say you’re wrong.

Keep On Flicking

Ian